Follows-Chalk nods and starts picking his way down the path to the river, which is marked with some more of the old blue and white Park Service signs. The river below runs through a particularly narrow canyon, and while it's only knee-deep at the most, the water is cold and mostly clear. Someone who looks closely enough can see fish in it- or the aforementioned traps, big pressure-triggered bear traps set carefully into the mud of the streambed every few yards.

Al pauses to scoop up a handful of the water and sniff at it. "Doesn't seem fouled," he notes. "That's kind of impressive."